SECTION II

PERFUME AND AROMATIC RAW MATERIALS

These lists are representative of the basic materials used in perfumes and aromatic compositions. The lists were compiled mainly on the basis of information provided by EFFA (European Flavour and Fragrance Association). They constitute the inventory of fragrance ingredients.

Fragrance ingredients do not need a common nomenclature because the fragrance or their ingredients (perfume and aromatic compositions and their raw materials) must be indicated on the labels using the words "perfume" or "flavour" (Article 6(1)(g) of the Cosmetic products Directive). Hence the information on the identity of these substances consists of a chemical name identifying the substances in the clearest possible way. Such a system already exists in the "acquis communautaire" - namely the EINECS inventory ("European Inventory of Existing Commercial Chemical Substances"), (Official Journal of the European Communities No C 146A of 15 June 1990) and ELINCS ("European List of Notified Chemical Substances"), whose most recent version was published in Official Journal No C 361 of 17 December 1994. These publications mainly contain the information necessary to describe a chemical substance in an unequivocal manner, i.e. a chemical name, a CAS number and an EINECS number.

These lists also include substances of unknown structure, of variable composition or of biological origin (so-called UVCB substances). This is why the inventory of fragrance ingredients was compiled on the basis of the EINECS system. The other identifiers mentioned in Directive 93/35/EEC cannot be applied (CTFA name, European Pharmacopoeia name, names recognised by the World Health Organisation, Colour Index number). The IUPAC identifier is covered by the EINECS identifier.

When substances have not been included in the EINECS system, only the CAS number and CAS name have been indicated.

The function of all ingredients included in this inventory is to perfume. Certain ingredients however may have several functions.

Substances used in fragrances for their properties in mixtures (solvents, excipients, etc.) are also included in the list. According to the Directive, these substances may be considered as part of the fragrance and do not have to be declared as a cosmetic ingredient, provided they are not used in excess of the recommended levels (Article 6(1)(g) of the Cosmetic products Directive).

Restrictions on the use of a given ingredient are identified wherever relevant. These restrictions are set out in the Directive itself or in the IFRA (International Fragrance Association) Code of Practice. These restrictions may take the form of a quantitative limitation (expressed as a percentage of the final product or as a concentration for application to the skin), or the ingredient may have to meet certain specifications or may only be used in conjunction with certain specified ingredients.

These substances are marked in the list with one asterisk (IFRA restrictions) or two asterisks (restrictions in the Cosmetic products Directive).

It should be noted that in this inventory the various qualities of a given ingredient, such as geraniol, have not been recorded separately; the same applies to different qualities of natural products with the same botanical origin. Orange oils from Brazil, Florida, California, etc., concentrated or otherwise, are all indicated under a single entry, i.e. "sweet orange extractives", CAS 8028-48-6, EINECS 232-433-8. This rubric is defined as follows: "Extractives and their physically modified derivates such as tinctures, concretes, absolutes, essential oils, oleoresins, terpenes, terpene-free fractions, distillates, residues, etc. obtained from Citrus sinensis, Rutaceae".

Neither does the inventory include ingredients whose chemical identity is secret and constitutes the intellectual property of a fragrances manufacturer. These substances are not sold as such but used exclusively in fragrance compositions, generally at low concentrations to give them a certain characteristic and/or exclusiveness.