Fragrance Materials

 

Stephen Herman, Natural perfumes. Drug & Cosmetic Industry, May 1996 v158 n5 p76(4).

The major break with "natural" came when aromatic materials not existing in nature were synthesized and introduced into perfume compounds. The legendary landmark of this development was Chanel No. 5 (introduced in 1921), containing a potent dose of decidedly unnatural aldehydes. An ever-increasing array of synthetics were added to the perfumer's palette, making possible almost all current fragrances. Economics, consistency, abundant supply, variety of odor profiles, stability--the advantages of synthetics are so overwhelming that they rapidly became pervasive.

Laszlo P. Somogyi, Birgitta Rhomberg, Yasuhiko Sakuma
AROMA CHEMICALS AND THE FLAVOR AND FRAGRANCE INDUSTRY.,
Chemical Economics Handbook. p. 503.5000 A.

In the early days of aroma formulations, chemicals from natural sources were used almost exclusively, and synthetic chemicals were added only as extenders of the expensive and scarce natural ingredients. The latter grew over time to be considered key ingredients in their own right, and synthetic organic chemicals currently constitute more than 80-90% (by weight and value) of the raw materials used in flavor and fragrance formulations.

Aroma chemicals are manufactured by extraction and isolation from natural sources, mainly essential oils; by, chemical modification (e.g.. acetylation) of isolates from natural sources; and by chemical synthesis, usually starting with petrochemicals.

The nine major starting chemicals for synthesis of aroma chemicals are:

Turpentine oil
C2-C5 petrochemicals
Benzene
Phenol
Toluene
Xylenes
Cresols
Naphthalene
Cyclopentene

Quest (a company that sells fragrance chemicals) has an online site in which you can access information regarding raw fragrance materials (You have to register to use the site). Follows are several fragrance chemicals with the information from the site. http://www.questintl.com/compendium

SHIRO CHOCO

ODOUR

Sweet, delicious and creamy, white chocolate base.

TENACITY

Several months

SUBSTANTIVITY

Dry hair - Moderate

Dry cotton - Excellent

Wet cotton - Good

PERFUMERY USAGE

Chocovan combines well with amber, vanilla and woody notes. The most obvious use is in chypres, orientals and floral orientals. Small doses in floral fragrances produce a subtle rounding effect. Recommended levels of use are up to 5%.

TRASEOLIDE

ODOUR

Clean versatile musk with a creamy, floral character.

TENACITY

Several months

SUBSTANTIVITY

Dry hair - Excellent

Dry cotton - Moderate

Wet cotton - Moderate

PERFUMERY USAGE

Dosage can be up to 25% from alcoholic fragrances through to soaps and detergents where its good chemical stability and fibre substantivity is valued.